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Grading Pearls
Determine which scale that your pearls are being graded on: Pearls have two different quality scales: ‘AAA-A and A-D’. Freshwater pearls are the primary users of the AAA-A system. It can be used in other circumstances, but not often.
Think Freshwater pearls when looking at the data below:
- In the AAA-A system, AAA is for essentially flawless pearls, with high luster and no apparent defects. No more than 5% of the pearl’s surface can have a blemish.
- The AA rating indicates high luster, and 75% blemish free.
- The A rating is used for a low jewelry grade pearl with minimal surface luster, and greater than a quarter of its surface blemished.
Know Pearl A-D Ratings
The alternative rating system – the A-D scale – is used for pearls from the South Seas or Tahiti. So this focuses on cultured pearls:
- ‘A’ rating means that they’re the highest quality pearls, with high luster, and less than 10% of its surface has defects.
- ‘B’ rating is for pearls with high to medium luster, and up to 30% surface imperfections.
- ‘C’ rated pearls can have up to 60% surface defects.
- ‘D’ rated pearls are something of a catch-all term. They usually have more than 60% of their surface area, or have concealable deep surface imperfections.
Pearl Buying Tips
Now that you know how pearls are graded, here are some tips for pearl acquisitiion:
Beyond their rating of AAA-A or A-D, pearls are graded by certain traits, like diamonds. In rough order, these are luster, shape, color, surface and size.
- The kind of pearl you decide to purchase – whether they’re cultured, fresh water, synthetic or natural will have a large impact on price; natural and some varieties of cultured pearls will be the most expensive.
- Luster is the key factor for value; it’s a measure of how reflective the entire pearl surface is. Choose for luster more than any other factor. A blemish is not an instant downcheck on a pearl, because they’re made by a natural process. A high luster pearl with a few blemishes is probably worth picking up.
- Larger pearls may be less valuable than you’d think, because in being accreted to that size, they may have flaws and blemishes and shape irregularities. It is extremely rare to find a perfectly round large pearl with high luster and few blemishes.
- Shape is dominated by roundness – with perfectly spherical being most desired, and teardrop being the second most common. While some unusual shapes hold different appeals, the safer bet is for round.
- For jewelry where pearls are adjacent to each other, like in a necklace or bracelet, look for close matches in size, symmetry and luster.
- Pearl necklaces need to be hand strung, with divider notes between them. Those knots keep the pearls from rubbing against each other and creating flaws.
Pearl Necklace Styles
- Collar necklaces are the most formal of pearl jewelry, and are usually made from three strands of pearls. They accent most any outfit, but are too high end for casual wear.
- Chokers are about 14-16 inches long, and are designed to lay on the collarbones. They’re generally elegant in their design, but seen as a touch old fashioned in modern design.
- For flexibility, consider a princess network, a single strand of pearls about 18 to 20 inches in length. They’re really the only pearl necklace that dresses down to business wear.
- The matinee style of necklace is about 20-25 inches long, and may be worn as a double strand, similar to a choker necklace.
- The high end of dramatic jewelry is the pearl rope necklace, with a length of 40 inches or more. It can be used in a number of ways, including around the waist, doubled or tripled around the neck and even into a head piece like a tiara or snood.
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One Comment
This is a very good information, especially for the pearl jewelry buyers. This will make the people to get to know more about the grading, the verieties of pearls and people will be aware of what to be focused on while buying pearls.
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